Dia De Los Amigos

This weekend has been the best weekend so far on my trip. Not only was it the warmest weather so far, but there was actually sun! It was fun to wonder around some of the famous neighborhoods of Buenos Aires, and welcome a new student to the apartment. Sunday was Dia De Los Amigos or "friends day". Just like we celebrate father's day and mother's day, the Argentines celebrate great friendships on this day. 

Tango at Cafe Tortoni! 

Cafe Tortoni is one of the oldest and most famous Cafes in Buenos Aires. It opened in 1858 and has been serving Portenos (people from Buenos Aires) ever since. They offer tango shows every night of the week. People are let in an hour before the show to eat dinner or order drinks. The show I saw imitated a night at a Tango club. 

Since it was the last night in Bueno Aires for one of my friends, we went to find a place to get drinks. We ended up wondering in to a Restobar behind my apartment building that had live tango music. It was a great relaxing and romantic atmosphere. We stayed there talking and enjoying the music for a few hours.

La Boca "The Mouth"

La Boca is Buenos Aires' most famous neighborhood. It is so named because it lays at the mouth of the river. When you google pictures of Buenos Aires, it is the colorful houses and shops of La Boca that the pop up. La Boca was founded by Italian immigrants who made there houses with parts from the boats the brought them over. Since, the materials were ugly, they painted their houses bright colors to liven up the neighborhood. It is also know to be the birth place of Tango. People in the tourist area of La Boca are very pushy. They walk up to you with menus and act like you want to go to their restaurant and the prices on almost everything are inflated. The streets were packed with people and the colors were extra vibrant in the sun.

The Famous Colored Walls

More Brightly Painted Walls

   

La Boca Crafts Market

Birthday Girl Buying a Leather Purse

Hand Made Bracelets

The Mouth of the River

San Telmo 

The San Telmo Market is a 10 block long crafts market that starts in the heart of San Telmo at Plaza Dorrego and ends at Plaza de Maya. There is everything from antiques to silver jewelry, to hand made leather pieces to shoes.  The majority of the things there are hand made and relatively in expensive. For example I bought a hand made leather belt for less than $10. 

After the market I went into La Casa Rosa with the girl who just moved into my apartment. It was not very exciting. There were only a few rooms that you were allowed into. I thought it was interesting that the inside of on courtyard was pink and the other was white.

Presidents Office 

 Entry Hall of La Casa Rosada

I have finally mastered the kitchen. Everything is gas and has to be lit with a match. I still freak out every time I light the stove, but I'm getting better. I cooked my first steak tognith! And I was very impressed with my results. For 6 pieces of stake the size show below it was about $4. So cheap compared to steak in the US! I will now be eating steak for the rest of the week though. To go along with the steak made eggplant, which is now my new favorite vegetable.

In My Element (Literally)

When I first got to Buenos Aires, I was afraid I had made a horrible mistake. I was in an over whelming city, traveling alone for the first time. On my second day here a man started following me and asking for my number. I was extremely close to breaking down in the middle of the street.

Now though, I couldn't be more sure that I made the right choice. I love the people I volunteer with. I love learning Spanish again. And I love Buenos Aires. Now that I have mastered my commute to school and to the LIFE office, I can really appreciate my life in the city. It has done nothing but reassure me that I need to follow my dream of living and working in a big city when I graduate. I am able to explore the streets on my way to school, and admire beautiful old buildings on my bus ride to the LIFE office. It rain a lot this weekend and I loved it. I finally get to experience "winter", since no such thing exists in at Santa Clara. I love walking the streets in the rain and then entering a warm building to let the heat warm me up. As the title says I am in my element here, and I am loving every minute of my time here.

La Malba

Since I have been battling a cold, I took it easy on Saturday. The forecast said it would rain most of the day which called for an indoor adventure, so I chose La Malba (Museo de Art Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires). La Malba has been my favorite attraction in the city so far. Along wit the permanent exhibit featuring many political paintings and some abstract art, they had also just opened up an exhibit that featured art that used lights. Below are a few of my favorite pieces of art. 

 Moving Metal Ovals that Reflected Light

 Woven Lights

 A Bench on Each Floor Met in the Lobby and Intwined

When I left the museum is was pouring. I made it half way to the bus stop before deciding to take a break in a coffee shop. This leads me to a confession. It goes against everything my dad has taught me about the evils of coffee, but despite hating coffee my entire life and resisting drinking it, I have started to really like cappuccinos. So, I ordered a cappuccino and a media luna and sat in the cafe watching the rain, texting friends and attempting to read a children's book in spanish. I spent the rest of my afternoon and evening at home preparing for the crazy day that was ahead.

El Mundial

(The World Cup)

Starting at about 1:00 (thats three hours before the game), people starting fileing into bars and restaurants to watch the world cup final. Some places were by reservation only, and others had a minimum that you must spend. We were extremely lucky to walk by a bar as it was opening, so we got front row seats to a big screen. By the time the game started the bar was packed full. To reach the minimum fee for this bar you had to order two drinks. Since I don't like beer, I watched the game with some delicious and strong white wine. 

It was rather depressing for the first thirty minutes after the game, but soon people started to celebrate to support the accomplishments of the Messi and the team. People began flocking towards the Obelisk  and walking up Corrientes. People leaned out of cars and randomly broke into song. The street was loud until at least 1am when I went to sleep. On my walk back home, I passed a German bar. The police were there ready to stop any fights that might break out. Though new stations in other countries focused on the burning cars and angry Argentines, that is not what I experienced at all. Although they were disappointed, Argentina still wanted to support their team and celebrate all that they accomplished this year. 

Corrientes After the Game

This week I have been in class in the morning and volunteering in the afternoons, so I have been extremely busy. Tomorrow I'm going to a tango show and this weekend I am going to La Boca and the San Telmo Crafts Market. My next post will have pictures and stories from volunteering. 

L.I.F.E.

Luchemos para una Infancia Feliz y con Esperanza
We strive for a Childhood with Happiness and Hope

This week I have been much busier, because I have started the volunteering portion of my trip. It was very stressful getting in contact with the organization last week and setting up a time to have my orientation. Originally, they wanted me to meet the son of the founder at his apartment last Friday night at 8:00pm. At this point, I was very hesitant that volunteering with LIFE would even work out. It was a very odd time and place to do an orientation, so I asked if it was possible to meet at the office a different time.  I scheduled a meeting at the office on Saturday morning. Thankfully, everything is legitimate.

LIFE was started by a woman named Liliana. Originally, volunteers were family and friends who she asked to help put on birthday parties in the Villas (slums) of Buenos Aires. Soon, she had more and more requests to help with the birthday parties. LIFE, then expanded it's programs to after school activities. A friend of Liliana's offered to make a website for her to communicate to volunteers. After it was launched, students from other countries wanted to come to volunteer with LIFE.

Now, LIFE offers programs at 4 or so different locations a few times a week. Most of the time, we just play with the kids. So far we have done glitter projects, puzzles, games, jump rope and made friendship bracelets. Some times volunteers also help with homework or health lessons for teens. There is one full time staff member and two interns who help coordinate the volunteers. There is also a small living quarters for volunteers at the office.

There is a special program for a village in the north of Argentina, where volunteers have been working to provide opportunities for the children living there. More students are going to high school from that village than ever before.

FUN FACT: LIFE with the first organization to work with TOMS shoes!!

Unfortunately, 24 hours after being around all the kids, I caught a cold. I have been drinking lots of tea and slept 10 hours last night. I'm hoping I will be better by Sunday for the Argentina vs. Germany world up game!

Independence Day... Kinda

Most people had the day off on July 9th, but it is only kinda of an Independence Day for Argentineans. It was when they created their fist government as Argentina. The most important Independence Day is May 25th, which is when the territories of Uruguay, Brazil, Panama, and Argentina, established the first local government.

The most important thing about Wednesday July 9th though, was that Argentina played the Netherlands in the world cup. My friends and I showed up to a bar an hour early, and all of the tables were already taken. People had started getting ready for the game as soon as they woke up. The atmosphere was unlike anything I have ever experienced. Everyone knew the same chants, people were yelling in the streets and everyone became bonded by their love of their football team. Everyone went crazy during the penalty kicks at the end of the game. Each time Argentina scored or the Netherlands missed there was an eruption of joy. For hours after the game, people leaned out of car windows yelling and singing cheers that I couldn't understand no matter how many times I heard them.

Celebrating with the Argentineans 

We had to cut our celebration short however because we had tickets to a show called Fuerza Bruta. It has traveled all over the world but originated in Argentina. It is Cirque Du Soleil esque, and very different at the same time. There is audience participation, and the audience gets moved around as the performances change locations. 

Opening Drummer

 All of the Drummers

Performers Flying through the Air

(not a great picture)

Clear Pool Above the Audience

Clear Pool Above Audience

 Pool Lowered on to Audience

 Performer Reaching Down to the Audience From a Plastic Bubble

Yep, That's an Audience Member with him

Celebrating Argentina's Win After the Performance

After such a crazy after noon and evening, I was ready to get home. A friend and I were going to split a cab home since the walk was do able, but not when we were tired. It was nearly impossible to find a cab and when we finally did we were already more than half way home. To your surprised the cab would not take us to my street, Corrientes. When we finally got there, we understood why. When Argentina wins a big game, every gathers at the Oblisque and marches up Corrientes. Even though it was three hours after the game people were still walking up the street and celebrating. 

Finally Settled In

I finally feel like I have my life here figured out. I have found a great group of girls who will be here for a few more weeks, I have mostly figured out what I will be eating, and I have figured out the important bus routs for me. I meet the girls (Victoria, Angie and Ellie) at my volunteer organization L.I.F.E. I spent most of the weekend with Ellie and the 4 of us along with Angie's roommate Kaite went to Uruguay together. It couldn't be more thankful for these girls. We will watch the Argentina game together on wednesday then go to a show called Fuerza Bruta. 

For the next month a typical day will look like this...

Wake up at 8:45 to get ready for class. I have class from 10am to 2pm. Then, I take bus 59 to the office where we meet to volunteer. Most days I will have extra time so I can pick up fresh fruit from a small fruit stand by the bus stop and/or a pastry or two from a little bakery. We leave for volunteering at 3:30 so I have plenty of time to change and eat lunch once I get to the office. Today we got back to the office at 7, so I was home around 7:30 to eat dinner.  Not only is the office near a great bakery and produce stand, but there is also a place to add money to my bus card RIGHT NEXT DOOR!

Today was very tiring, but I am very happy to be keeping myself busy so that I don't miss the beautiful weather in Portland. Over 1/7th of my trip is finished which is weird to think about. 

No, I Will Not Be Coming Back Tan

I don't remember who it was but, when I told one of my good friends that I was going to Argentina for a month, his response was "You are going to come back SOOO TAN!!". That is SO wrong though. The weather here is like Portland winter. For those of you who don't live in Portland, that means highs int he 40s (occasionally the 50s) and very very grey. It even rained all day here on Saturday. I felt right at home walking 30 minutes to a bar to watch the Argentina vs. Belgium world up game. I was not in the mood for a cold drink, so I got a submarino. It is basically a fancy hot chocolate. They heat up milk very hot, then drop a chunk of rich chocolate in it to melt. It is up to you to stir the chocolate and the milk together. It was exactly what I needed after the long cold walk. 

Submarino While Watching the Soccer Game.

This was the first game I had watch a game in a restobar (half restaurant half bar). It was something unlike anything we have in the U.S. Everyone reacted to game together, cheering and groaning. Even on our walk to the bar, we hear the whole neighborhood erupt with joy when Argentina scored. 

Colonial, Uruguay

Colonial is a small tourist town, an hour ferry ride from Buenos Aires. There a few museums, lots of cafes, a verity of Spanish and Portuguese architecture and a crafts market. The boat ride was much choppier than I expected, but with an early start it was beautiful to watch the sun rise over the water. The strange thing about the town is that you can get US dollars out of any of the ATMS and all of the stores accept USD, Argentinean peso and Uruguayan pesos. 

Sunrise Through the Port Hole

Although we had a very stressful time getting to the port to catch the boat, it was worth it. The weather was less than ideal, it was in the low 40s and extremely windy. It's been a long time since I have been that cold for a long period of time. To warm up we stopped at a cafe before continuing to explore the town. I didn't take any pictures of the market, but there were many hang crafted things. There were ceramics, wool, and many many many mate cups. I bought some presents at the market for my family. 

Subarminos and Media Lunas at the Cafe

 The Old Church

Wondering Around the Historic District

Restaurant in the History District

Before heading back to the ferry we stopped for lunch at a restaurant who's name translates to "Drug Store". The inside was decorated with lots of bright colors. I was originally going to get a traditional Uruguayan stew, but they were out so I ordered chorizo instead. This one was MUCH better than the last one I had. It was very nicely browed and the flavors of the spices came out beautifully. 

The Best Steak I've Ever Had

Living in a world of "sshhh"

Argentinean Flag in La Plaza De Mayo

The hardest thing to get used to here is the slightly different form of Spanish that Argentinians speak. First, they pronounce all of there "J"s and "Y"s as "sh". Second, they have a different form of the pronoun "you" than all other Spanish speaking countries. Other than this, classes are going VERY well. I have a guy from France, a girl from Australia and a girl from Minnesota in my class. The grammar we are learning is a much needed review and I already feel like I am getting more comfortable with the language. I have also started to experience more of the Argentinian culture. I had my first steake, my first glass of wine, went to my first bar and had my first tango lesson. Below are pictures from a walking tour near my school, the day I spent in La Recoleta, and my tango experience.

Walking Tour

Plaza De Mayo on my Walking tour

Bullet holes from revolt where many people were killed

Celebrating a Birthday after the Walking Tour with Steak! 

Tango!

I went to a Tango club that starts off the eventing with a mini lesson, then turns into a Tango club. As many of you know, dancing is not something I will ever be good at. What made my night worth it, was that  I also go to learn about Tango culture from one of the young teachers. Usually clubs play three Tango songs in a row, then a transition song that is more up beat. To ask a girl to dance, a guy will try to make eye contact with them. It is expected that you will keep the same parter during an entire set of three songs (unless you really don't like them). I mostly danced with two travelers from Scotland who were also beginners. I danced once with a 70 year old man who did his best to teach me more steps. The hardest part about tango is concentrating on the body movements of the man so that you can follow them correctly. 

Life Music at the Tango Club

La Recoleta

La Recoleta is one of the nicest neighborhoods in Buenos Aires. It has many museums and parks, and is most famous for its cemetery. Only the most wealthy and famous people from Argentina are buried their, so as you can imagine the tombs are large and gorgeous. 

Walk way out side the Cemetery

Walk way inside the Cemetery

Some of the Oldest Tombs

Some of the Newer Tombs

My Favorite Tomb 

(also one of the most elaborate)

Cemetery At Sunset

 El Museo De Bella Artes in La Recoleta

The first floor of the building was classic frescos. They had some famous artists like Rembrant, but not many paintings that amazed me. My favorite thing on the first floor was a statue of a man and a woman (below). I was amazed by the detail in the muscles and the ability of the artist to convey the deep connection between the two people.

The second floor of the museum was filled with cartoons. There majority were related to famous pieces of art, and they were all in Spanish. My two favorites are below.

I am starting to be very adjusted to the city. I'm now comfortable navigating my way around where I live by foot and I am an expert at getting the la Recoleta by bus from my home-stay. I have discovered a bus that pretty much drops me off in front of the volunteering office. I start volunteering on Monday! Tomorrow I am going to Uruguay with people that who I am going to volunteer. I hope to post at least one blog in the middle of the week, so keep an eye out for it!